FOUR BASIC STOCKS

I keep stocks super simple. I usually don’t bother adding onions to my stocks, though in the typical way of a chef, sometimes I add them, and sometimes I don’t. I will choose shallots for a more delicate flavor or I’ll add some dried onion skin that would have gone in to the bin in any kitchen of repute. But as every experienced chef knows, the skin adds color to a stock, and a certain flavor that is sometimes the exact flavor you want. These are choices you make after cooking for many years, nuances you attend to as a chef.

Stocks are points of departure. They become personaliazed and tailored to your individual palate and are elaborated on to serve a specific purpose.

As a footnote, I’ll mention that I like to turn my left over chicken carcass into a stock, unless it has a distinctive flavor such as ginger, turmeric, chili flake or aother particular spice or seasoning that by its nature narrows its use. For a stock from a left over carcass I remove any herbs or seasonings I may have put in the cavity, plop the carcass into a pot, cover it with cold water, and simmer it for an hour. The carcass will season the stock quite well, no added flavors needed, not even salt.

Remember, don’t boil a stock, as it will ruined by irreversibly emulsifying its fat in the broth!

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BEEF STOCK

Makes 1 gal

6 lbs beef bones – combination of neck bones, knuckle bones, shank bones
1 large leek, darkest green top leaves trimmed off, split in half lengthwise, halves cut on bias into 3-inch pieces
1 medium carrot, peeled, split in half lenghtwise, laid cut side down, cut on bias into 3-inch pieces
1 medium celery stalk, rinsed, cut on bias into 3-inch pieces
1 TBL tomato paste
1 bay leaf
1 tsp black peppercorns
½ tsp juniper berries
¼ tsp allspice berries
3 spikes clove
A few parsley stems
1 sprig fresh thyme

METHOD

Roast bones in oven on a baking sheet for 35 mins at 375° F until lightly browned
Transfer bones to a stock pot; scrape any bits from baking sheeet and add to stock pot
In a sauté pan, cook leek, carrot, and celery in oil over low heat for 5 mins until vegetables soften
Add vegetables to stock pot
Cover with 1 ½ gal cold water (more if needed)
Bring to a simmer and skim foam from surface
Add remaining ingredients to stock pot and simmer uncovered for 4 hours
Remove bones from stock pot with a wide-mesh strainer and discard bones
Strain stock through a sieve into a separate container
Allow stock to rest for 1 hour; sediment will settle to bottom of pot and fat will float to surface of stock
Skim stock again
Strain stock through sieve lined with cheesecloth (muslin)
Chill

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CHICKEN STOCK

Makes 1 gal

6 lbs chicken parts – wings, tips, feet, heads, necks – plus one carcass
1 large leek, darkest green top leaves trimmed off, split lengthwise, laid cut side down, halves cut on bias into 3-inch pieces
1 medium carrot, peeled, split lenghtwise, laid cut side down, cut on bias into 3-inch pieces
1 medium celery stalk, rinsed, cut on bias into 3-inch pieces
1 bay leaf
½ tsp black peppercorns
¼ tsp fennel seed
¼ tsp coriander seed
A few parsley stems
1 sprig fresh thyme

METHOD

• Add chicken parts to a stock pot

• Bring to a simmer and skim foam from surface

• Add remaing ingredients to stock pot

• Cover with 1 ½ gal cold water (more if needed)

• Bring to a simmer and simmer for 2 ½ hours

• Remove bones from stock pot with a wide-mesh strainer and discard bones

• Strain stock through a sieve into another container

• Allow stock to rest for 1 hour; sediment will settle to bottom of pot and fat will float to surface of stock

• Skim stock again

• Strain stock through sieve lined with cheesecloth (muslin)

• Chill

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FISH AND SHELLFISH STOCK

Makes 1 gallon

If you want a fish stock without shellfish, omit shrimp and lobster shells and increase fish bones to 4 lbs.

1 lb shrimp or lobster shells or combination of both
2 oz grapeseed or other neutral vegetable oil
3 lbs bones, incl heads, fins, and tails from white fish only – halibut, rockfish, sea bass, striped bass, cod, etc., chopped into large chunks (don’t use strong-flavoured fatty fish such as salmon, tuna, mackerel, etc.)
1 cup white wine
1 large leek, white and pale green part, cut into small dice
½ medium celery stalk, cut into small dice
½ teaspoon coriander seed
½ teaspoon fennel seed
1 bay leaf
A few sprigs parsley
1 small strip orange peel
1 small strips lemon peel
2 sweet dried chilis, such as California, seeded
One 14 oz tin plum tomatoes including juice, pureed
Optional: 1 teaspoon saffron threads; 1 cup of wild fennel fronds

METHOD

Sauté shrimp or lobster shells in 1 oz oil in a saucepan until shells turn pink and are lightly browned; transfer to a stock pot
Sauté fish bones in 1 oz oil in a saucepan until lightly browned; transfer to a stock pot
Deglaze pan with white wine, scraping bottom of pan to free any bits stuck to bottom of pan; add scrapings to stock pot
Add leeks, onion, celery, spices, citrus peels, chilis, and tomato to stock pot
Cover with 1 ½ gal cold water (more if needed)
Bring to simmer and simmer for 1 ½ hours; stir often, as the solids can rest onbottom of pot and burn easily
Remove bones with a wide-mesh strainer and discard bones
Strain stock through a sieve
Allow stock to settle for 1 hour; remaining sediment will settle to bottom and fat will float to surface of stock
Skim stock again
Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth (muslin)
Chill

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VEGETABLE STOCK

Makes 1 gal

3 large leeks, darkest green top leaves trimmed off, split lengthwise, laid cut side down, halves cut on bias into 1-inch pieces
2 medium celery stalk, rinsed, cut on bias into 1-inch pieces
1 medium carrot, peeled, split lenghtwise, laid cut side down, cut on bias into 1-inch pieces
2 oz grapeseed or other neutral vegetabel oil
1 bay leaf
1 tsp black peppercorns
¼ tsp fennel seed
¼ tsp coriander seed
Small handful of parsley stems
Small handful of chervil stems
1 sprig fresh thyme
½ cup cremini mushrooms wiped clean, thinly sliced with stems
Optional: 1 piece kombu, ¼ cup dried shiitake mushrooms

METHOD

Sauté vegetables in oil in a stock pot ove rlow flame until they soften, about 10 mins
Cover vegetables with 1 ½ gal cold water (more if needed)
Bring to a simmer and simmer 1 ½ hours
Remove vegetables with a wide-mesh strainer and discard vegetables
Strain stock through a sieve
Allow stock to settle for 1 hour; any sediment will settle to bottom and fat will float to surface of stock
Skim stock again
Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth (muslin)
Chill