066 880 6629

monte dei cenci, 9

Jewish quarter

Definitve carciofi alla giudea


Gelato di San Crispino

via della Panetteria, 42

This is the original one (there are 4, incl the airport), near the Trevi fountain. Excellent gelato, a beautiful place, small door with glass plage. All the gelati, and there are many, are covered, as they should be. The cute attendants are dressed in chemists’ coats and baker’s hats and don’t really want to wait on you -- they know you’re undeserving of their attention. Go for it anyway.



via del Leone, 4

06 683 2100

Run by 2 brothers, simple food, great wine list.


Al Ceppo  

via Panama, 2 

06 841 9696

A little elegant, but the grill is in the entrance area, and that’s a good sign. The food is great and the people are stunningly beautiful.  Expensive. 



Piazza delle Coppelle, 44, near the Pantheon

06 830 7895

In a former butcher shop. Simple, delicious food, classic roman fare. Flawless cacio e pepe, carbonara, and great biscotti.


Da Francesco

Piazza del Fico, 29, 00186 Rome, Italy

06 686 4009

A wonderful, simple place on charming tiny Piazzadel Fico.  Have a drink in the very cool caffè across the alley, and sit under the giant fig tree. 


Dar Filettaro di Santa Barabara

No website

Largo dei Librari, 88  (off via dei Giubbonari, Campo dei Fiore)

066 864 018 (no reservations)

***This little paper-on-the-table restaurant near Campo de' Fiori is my Rome favorite, serving a few simple salads and wonderful (it’s the only dish!) fried baccalà – as simple as it gets. Take away or eat in. YOU MUST GO HERE!!! Have the puntarelle salad; it should be the world’s recipe (anchovy, garlic, vinegar, olive oil). Of course, they have wine -- red or white – and cold beer. Sometimes there are other fritti – zucca, fiore di zucca, calamari, but only if you’re lucky and they feel like it.




Da Enzo

1via dei Vascellari, 29  

06 581 8355

A special little place in Trastevere. Jammed with tables and people. One of my favorite restaurant -- cucina romana classica.




Tazzo d'Oro

via degli Orfani, 84 (near the Pantheon)



La Buvette

via Vittoria 44/47

06 679 0383

A lovely coffee bar in the old style, on the ground level but above a restaurant of the same name. Wonderful for coffee and pastries. Mos def out of the 19th C., but exquisite and expensive.




via del Pellegrino 55 (Campo de' Fiori)

06 683 08957

An enchanting glass and rug shop, all handmade goods from Egypt and Syria (their Syrian restaurant is next door!) Go there and be enchanted. 


A new place highly recommended but I haven’t tried:


v. della Robbia 84/86

06 57 466 886




7 march 2015

Pizza Emma

Antico Storico

Toppings from Salumeria Roscioli (cf.)



pizza al taglio e suppli


osteria di moteverde

pianostrada laboratorio du cucina

Header Image: "Rome" by Moyan Brenn is licensed under CC BY 2.0